New rewire and fuse board - views on work.

[buzzlightyear]

I’ve checked on the website, he’s part P. I found him on my builder with over 100 reviews and 100% positive rating.

You are only has good what you do regarding skill and judgement.
Buzz book of proverbs.

 

[Dustydazzler]

I can honestly say that I haven't fitted a dual RCD board since around 2019 , they were a crap design when they came out in the 17th Ed and are still a crap design now

 

[Mobisystems]

Hi,

I’d appreciate views on the fuse board.

B15507-C3-D860-4-B7-C-B670-7-C9332043-AB4 hosted at ImgBB

Image B15507-C3-D860-4-B7-C-B670-7-C9332043-AB4 hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

It’s been completely rewired and I’m unhappy with the quality.

I’ve messaged him about it and described the board as a complete mess, and poor workmanship ship. For entry for the 25mm cables and 16mm tails he used the knock out but didn’t bother using the plastic cable holder - which is a couple of quid.

Also with the cables coming in through the back, there is no plastic or anything so the metal of the board could rub against the metal of the board.

his reply is below

a. - there is a reason why cables shouldn't be perfectly arrange in the fuse box because it could create electromagnetic field resulting in humming sound in the fuse box- you would probably think that's ridiculous ! But it's a fact!


Quite frankly I’m shocked, would you be happy with the work, paying over 4k? And supplying the board all second fix items etc? So basically 5k?

He has also created 5 additional lighting circuits downstairs, I live in a three bed terraced house.

1) for 6 down lights in a 2.5m x 2m room.
2) just the ground hallway light.
3) the lounge dinner, two lights and two wall lights.
4) a porch light and floodlight.
5) under stairs light simply 2 lights.

His reply is that it is is better… but then it’s all on a dual rcd so it doesn’t really help in my opinion.

We agreed the whole of downstairs on a circuit except the hallway on a separate one. (He said that was best practice.

I’ve attached photos and the pieces that I believe should go there. One is too big.

What I noticed on the DB, if you look at the SPD on the right of the main Isolator, at the bottom side the N busbar link is bare, like the plastic cover was cut. I know that it doesn't come like that from the manufacturer.

 

[Pretty Mouth]

@westward10 my understanding is that they look like this - and I'd expect to see some glimpse of the CPC .

I fitted a hager SPD board 2 or 3 months back. I recall it being configured strangely, it came with the link across the top, but IIRC it didn't have a CPC connecting it to earth, I think it made the connection via the DIN rail. Basically as in the picture in the OP.

 

[Pretty Mouth]

Here's a photo, there was no CPC. I feel like I should go back to the job now to confirm that it is connected to earth via the din rail.

I actually thought it was defective at first, because of the vaguely red window (I'm sure older hager SPDs had a green window when ok), so contacted Mastertrade, who helpfully forwarded info from hager explaining that it will go solid red when expired.

 

[LukeD]

8 circuits on one RCD - that's not good.

Decent quality board though. And an SPD fitted.

Cracking excuse for untidy wiring - it avoids electromagnetic interference making the fuseboard hum!!

You should read some post on hifi forums !!!

 

[Mobisystems]

The above is one of many reasons why a lot of electricians insist upon supplying materials - or at the very least writing a comprehensive list.

Your new board is not what many would recommend, for reasons previously outlined, but having a dual RCD board doens't present any inherent danger. It can be argued that such boards should no longer be fitted, and I'd be the first to argue that very point, but changing it again will present significant cost and this would be borne by you as the board was your choice.

Provided the wiring in your home is good, and connections sound, the risk of problems should be exceptionally low and it might be best to get any real issues resolved and chalk the rest up to experience. I doubt you'll be using this electrician again, but in future would look for word of mouth recommendations or ask for someone local on a specialist forum like this one.

I also agree with the opinion , that there is nothing wrong with fitting Dual RCD DB. It's mainly matter of convenience for me, when using RCBO's instead of dual RCD, in case of a fault. At the moment we are finishing residential apartments complex, using exactly the same Hagger DB's. I must have tested 300 of them so far. Regarding the mentioned above DB job, it's cheaply done, but this very common, when a client choses the cheapest offers. Normally, I would use gland for the meter tails and supporting clips. Cables contained in 50x50mm trunking(or bigger) , and using metal bushes/lockrings instead of the knockouts. All gaps/cable entry sealed with fire mastic. And at the end - all connections within DB tightened with torque screwdriver by manufacturer's specifications(nearly nobody is doing that, but yesterday was called out to sort a problem because of loose busbar connection in DB). Also I would leave a spare MCB before the 1st RCD(for security alarm/fire alarm/ disability / garrage DB circuits).

 

[LukeD]

I’ve noticed this and have pointed this out.

He is a niceic registered electrician which I’ve verified with them.

I’ve also noted that if the fuse on the right goes I will loose both power and lights to the upstairs and third floor (loft).

As an electrician would you be satisfied with the standard of work ? He deems it good quality and states he’s been registered for 15 years.

I’ve checked on the website, he’s part P. I found him on my builder with over 100 reviews and 100% positive rating.

You say dual rcd is not recommended. If im honest I didn’t want to spend the money on a rcbo- there are 14 circuits.

If I wanted to change this to a rcbo, could I simply buy the rcbo’ or would I need to install a whole new board ?

Is it possible in this fuse board to add a third rcd, to split some of the stuff, in case one trips etc ?

Or even is it possible to put an rcbo in there? Obviously I know it would need to come before the RCD.


Perhaps just for upstairs sockets so we have some power in an emergency.

no this is after the rewire.

What rewire ??? one or two circuits maybe but as mentioned there is old coded cables showing

 

[timhoward]

Here's a photo, there was no CPC. I feel like I should go back to the job now to confirm that it is connected to earth via the din rail.

It's taken some concerted searching, as the numbers on the front are the cartridge numbers SPB015 and SPB105N.
I believe the whole assembly is knows as VME02SPD, and the instructions (which also mention those cartridges) show a CPC connected. But it wasn't easy to find this.

https://www.electrical4less.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/ZD0906_VME02SPD_SURGE_KIT_INSTRUCTIONS.pdf

https://hager.com/uk/products/download/product/asset/file/ZD0906_VME02SPD_SURGE_KIT_INSTRUCTIONS.PDF/

 

[Mobisystems]

Yes the Regulations do not advise them for residential properties.

Here's a picture of a Fusebox CU with compact RCBOs recently installed by me , this wouldn't cost an awful lot more than the dual RCD Hager board you specified and is good quality. I think how a CU is fitted/connected up gives a fair idea of an electricians attitude to their work and any decent Electrical Tradesperson would produce something like this.

Hi, just curious, are your Meter tails burried in the wall?