Discuss Oven with 13a plug top in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

I havent seen it yet my son told me over the phone he,ll show me a picture tonight , but he says it is a new build house .
Well if its the square type, just to confuse things, and give you another option - you could replace with a two gang grid with a DP 20 Amp switch on one side, a fuse carrier on the other, and then cut the plug and connect straight into the outlet. At least the fuse would not be hidden anywhere.
 
Well if its the square type, just to confuse things, and give you another option - you could replace with a two gang grid with a DP 20 Amp switch on one side, a fuse carrier on the other, and then cut the plug and connect straight into the outlet. At least the fuse would not be hidden anywhere.
thought of that, now i think of it ishouldn,t new builds have the option of a socket under the units i,ll need to see his picture he said something about being unable to change outlet to a socket , he,s a gas engineer , i usually connect up these things for him ,but couldn,t attend today, so he,s got a fairly basic idea about these things ,i,ll need to wait and see.
 
Replace the cooker switch above the worktop with a 13a switch fused spur, and then the cooker outlet under the worktop with a single socket.

No downgrading of the MCB required.
Why replace the cooker switch?
Presuming it's wired in 6.0mm cable, just replace the outlet point with a socket controlled via the cooker unit.
I wouldn't fancy 6mm in and out of a fcu, either.
 
Replace the cooker switch above the worktop with a 13a switch fused spur, and then the cooker outlet under the worktop with a single socket.

No downgrading of the MCB required.
wrong.... 2 x 13A fuses in series. which one blows? ipf post #16 says all.
 
could you lengthen the cable from the outlet and place a socket in an adjacent cupboard, if the oven has a plug on it they will normally be of the heavy duty kind (same as the one on mine), it will be fan assisted and will not melt the plug. If it comes supplied from the manufacturer with a plug on then it will be more than adequate.
 
Why replace the cooker switch?
Presuming it's wired in 6.0mm cable, just replace the outlet point with a socket controlled via the cooker unit.
I wouldn't fancy 6mm in and out of a fcu, either.

Now I’ve re-read what I wrote it sounds stupid haha!
Will read through the entire thread next time before commenting, definitely got my wires crossed (Pun intended!)
 

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