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In that case it’s on them mate, they can hardly say the oven spec wasn’t discussed if they supplied it, you need to speak to whoever did the works and get an explanation.....do keep us updated we like that ?Yes that's right.
Discuss Possible dodgy oven wiring discovered in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net
In that case it’s on them mate, they can hardly say the oven spec wasn’t discussed if they supplied it, you need to speak to whoever did the works and get an explanation.....do keep us updated we like that ?Yes that's right.
The RFC circuit is fine for supplying the kitchen sockets but not an oven that stipulated 16a supply, as a rule anything over 2kw should be on its own circuit, not advocating you doing this obviously but it would be interesting to see cable sizing for that 45a isolator and where it’s fed from....Hi there, not sure how it has been wired. Apparently it is a ring final circuit going by the installation report, not sure if that is a good thing or a bad thing. See attached from the report. In the report it says it is 20A rating.... but there is actually a 32A breaker in the CU. I need to clarify whether that is a typo, some funny business or what. I will ask them to come and clarify what gauge of wire has been used etc, when I try to get them to come back and fix this oven wiring.
No cooker circuit RCBO in the picture. I think someone realised they hadn't got space in the consumer unit that they've fitted, and so they connected the cooker to the socket ring.
Would be interesting to see how the kitchen socket circuit has actually been wired, is it a ring final circuit or a radial and what size cable has been used between the cooker isolator and the sockets?
A close up pic. of the inside of the CU, showing the brown wires going into the breakers would certainly help.i'm sure OP is intelligent enough to switch off the main switch, remove the CU cover, and take a pic. obviously observing relevant safety precautions.
Cheers, thought as much! Oh dear.It’s going to be a battle.
First, you have to get the builder to accept responsibility. His electrician, his problem.
Then he will try to convince you to have a sub standard repair job done.... either bodge it off the ring somehow, or run a new radial, but run it in surface trunking.
The least disruptive solution is, as you say, to buy an oven that comes with a 13A plug fitted.... but make sure HE pays for it.
My last post asked if there was an old cooker circuit in the kitchen. Maybe this could be reused? Jointed or rerouted to suit where the oven is
TBH this would be your best option as you already have gas for the hob.The previous owners had a gas oven.
Yes that’s right, when the kitchen ring is turned off all the sockets in the kitchen go off. Including the neon for the cooker switch and the electric ignition for the hob won’t work. If the kitchen ring is on, the neon for the cooker switch illuminates.Just clarify that when the kitchen ring is turned off, the socket that the oven is plugged into goes off. (Ignitor for hob won’t fire)
All you need to say is the oven is too high a rating to be simply plugged into a 13A socket.
The builder and spark can then argue amongst themselves whose fault it is.
Dont take anything else apart, there’s no need to.
Bottom line, they designed it, they supplied the oven. The circuit for the oven should be there.
Reply to Possible dodgy oven wiring discovered in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net
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