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C

cotty

Hi, I'm a Electrical Trainee, not long qualified to be a Domestic Installer. I have my 2382,2377 and EAL Level 2! The question is: I'm going to upgrade my mums electrics as there's no rcd and it's on the old re-wireable! My query is because the under floor heating is on a separate cu and economy 7! Can I put all circuits on a split rcd board or should I just leave the under floor board alone and just put a board in for the ring circuit etc??
 
leave the economy 7 board as is. fit dual RCD ( or RCBO) CU in place of the "normal" CU. what size are the tails, and what earthing system is it?

edit: are you going to use job for cps assessment?
 
I'd start by defining how many circuits there are...... and don't forget to review/upgrade/install bonding to the incoming water and gas....
 
also, it depends on which type of metering you have. if it's not a dual tarrif meter you couldd lose the ecomomy 7 for the UFH if you put those circuits into a combined CU.
 
haha. you should be on the stage........ the next one leaves in half an hour.
 
Leave the underfloor heating well alone, or bills could raise.
Do some testing BEFORE board change just incase there's an issue that the RCD wont like.
In the nicest way possible...a DB change is likely to take you a little while and wont leave much time for fault finding same day. (I have a DI working for me)
Check bonding and main tail sizes first. This is a notifiable job.

High possibility that circuit cables will not be long enough so be prepared to extend them.
 
Sorry all....not going to be so charitable.

OP - if that is your understanding of a 'split board', AFTER having done those various bits of paper, please please please please entrust the safety of your family, and others' families, to those who do actually understand because they've been trained properly. You know, like the bloke who installed that perfectly serviceable 3036 board thirty years ago that you're about to rip out for no particularly valid reason.....
 
Hi, I'm a Electrical Trainee, not long qualified to be a Domestic Installer. I have my 2382,2377 and EAL Level 2! The question is: I'm going to upgrade my mums electrics as there's no rcd and it's on the old re-wireable! My query is because the under floor heating is on a separate cu and economy 7! Can I put all circuits on a split rcd board or should I just leave the under floor board alone and just put a board in for the ring circuit etc??
I 2nd what telectrix said really. If however you do have a dual tariff meter (one meter with two line outputs) then I would suggest you do put the underfloor htg cct on the new DB as you will then add RCD protection to it.
 
Sorry all....not going to be so charitable.

OP - if that is your understanding of a 'split board', AFTER having done those various bits of paper, please please please please entrust the safety of your family, and others' families, to those who do actually understand because they've been trained properly. You know, like the bloke who installed that perfectly serviceable 3036 board thirty years ago that you're about to rip out for no particularly valid reason.....

The old 3036 be perfectly serviceable but a new DB offers more protection by means of RCD and that the OCPD can't have incorrectly rated fusewire installed.
 
The old 3036 be perfectly serviceable but a new DB offers more protection by means of RCD and that the OCPD can't have incorrectly rated fusewire installed.

And a new board installed by someone who doesn't know what they are doing increases the level of safety by how much, exactly?
 
Hi, I'm a Electrical Trainee, not long qualified to be a Domestic Installer. I have my 2382,2377 and EAL Level 2! The question is: I'm going to upgrade my mums electrics as there's no rcd and it's on the old re-wireable! My query is because the under floor heating is on a separate cu and economy 7! Can I put all circuits on a split rcd board or should I just leave the under floor board alone and just put a board in for the ring circuit etc??
Wow slow down now, whats this all about? before attempting to change the board test the circuits out in the house, you may find a can of worms there and end up in all sorts of trouble with appliances blowing the trip, borrowed neutrals and no CPCs in switch drops, I would be very careful before ripping anything out as you are inexperienced. Just take a deep breath and think about it first.
 
Sorry all....not going to be so charitable.

OP - if that is your understanding of a 'split board', AFTER having done those various bits of paper, please please please please entrust the safety of your family, and others' families, to those who do actually understand because they've been trained properly. You know, like the bloke who installed that perfectly serviceable 3036 board thirty years ago that you're about to rip out for no particularly valid reason.....

For heavens sake! He is not wiring the Channel Tunnel! It's simply a BOARD change in a domestic property - hardly rocket science. Most people of average intelligence and a basic knowledge of electrics from even a Reader's Digest or Collins DIY book would be able to wire a house and probably do it it a standard whcih would last '30 years' and more. Do not forget that many Electrical Trainee may have a good grasp of English, maths and physics from previous training/education and probably, a lot better than a lot of the no-hopers who were on my electrical courses. Get off your little-horse Rockingit and train for a more prestigious (and intellectually stimulating) career as a Rocket Scientist.
 
If any of these jokers came into my surgery they'd be leaving without something.

FFS, when are people EVER going to learn?! It is for this very reason that you lot of chumps are currently being debated by Parliament as being a cockup produced by an abortion that needs to be put to sleep.
 
Everyone has got to start somewhere, which I think we all agree on, but being a Electrical Trainee as a starting point is something that is obviously up for debate. I won't be nasty, but will try to be constructive.

I think what would be a good idea would be to call a local electrician (hopefully not a fellow Electrical Trainee) and explain that you are a novice and would like some guidance, who knows you might find one who will help you change it for not much money. I know a few locals sparks myself and they are all helpful and happy to share a job if you need to.

On the surface, yes, it does look easy, but theres a lot of rules and regs you have to stick to, and ensure everything is safe etc... there's a lot more to it than just unplug one and plug a new one in. You need to be able to read the results from your testing equipment, interpret them and fully understand what they mean. Unless you have a full understanding, I wouldn't even entertain it as you will have figures in front of you that you wont have a clue what they are or mean and possibly won't even have an idea of where to look to find out.

Have you got the required equipment to be able to safely carry this out and test it?

Have you got a multi-function tester or individuals?

have you got a torque screwdriver that you can set in accordance with the manufacturers instructions?

Have you got an approved voltage indicator and proving unit? I say a proving unit because as he will be changing the board, its unlikely he will have a known live supply to test against as he will either be naughty and cut the seal and whip the fuse out (hopefully not) or he will switch the isolator off and not remove the seal on the meter side of it, so would not have anywhere to test against without cutting a seal maybe...

As you are not registered with a body, do you have a copy of the "Standard Forms" to fill in? Also, as you are not registered, are you planning on telling anyone you are changing the board as its a notifiable job.

Unfortunately, nobody on here is going to be able to stop you or even possible change your mind on how you proceed as I am sure you have probably got it set in your head what you are going to do.

I have changed quite a lot of boards, and even now, i hate starting them, its ok once the new board is mounted, but up till then, i get a little twitchy even when I have previously tested everything and cant find anything obvious that's going to cause a problem.

A board change I did once, it was for a friend, I didnt test it, it was an old 3036, it was in an impossible location to get in front of so just risked it, and I ended up staying until 5am the following morning getting his power back on, so just make sure you test it first!

- - - Updated - - -

jees, that went on a bit...
 
At the end of the day if the OP can handle the job then hey better to do it on a family members house and have a practise I suppose.
 
At the end of the day if the OP can handle the job then hey better to do it on a family members house and have a practise I suppose.

Well, that is always preferable I guess, at least they can take their time and not have to look a plonker. Regardless of the route to the start point, everyone has been a beginner at some stage.

One thing I would say is, make sure you have a head torch with lots of spare batteries just encase you cannot get the power back on and it gets dark!
 
At the end of the day if the OP can handle the job then hey better to do it on a family members house and have a practise I suppose.


Where there's a Will there's a way, eh? ;)
 

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