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A couple of dbs & their glanding ive done recently on commercial job.
 

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Hi Mark ... neat job and only minor notes from me..

-You have singles entering the board and seem to have ID'd the L & N but your earthing is not it would seem, any following Electrician is going to need to follow the earthing to the jungle of SWA glands to confirm.
-As noted above cut all the ties in the trunking to allow dissipation of heat.
-Also hard to tell but swa grouping should be no more than 3 per group to allow good heat dissipation ...you may have already done this but its hard to tell as I said.
-Lastly I don't see any main earthing link to the bottom power switch section, these boards are only slotted and tapped together with a few screws, you should not rely on this to make an effective earth route.

Other than my minor comments, I commend you on a neat job.
 
-You have singles entering the board and seem to have ID'd the L & N but your earthing is not it would seem, any following Electrician is going to need to follow the earthing to the jungle of SWA glands to confirm.

But all of those earths are all terminated together at each end, how could any one of them possibly be attributed to any one circuit?
 
You’d be looking for a new job if I saw you running separate earth bonds for each cable. It’s a waste of materials and confusing.

All our panels with small SWA’s like that would have two banjo’s per gland and a single 16mm[SUP]2[/SUP] bond to the EMT. The banjo’s on the outside so there was brass to brass contact.

Earth%20tags_zpsx877cywc.jpg
 
But all of those earths are all terminated together at each end, how could any one of them possibly be attributed to any one circuit?


I see your point and was half expecting this comment but as the OP hasn't done a global earth tap to the trunking or first banjo and chose to run individual tails they should be marked up in the board regardless of the common bond at glanding. This is my opinion and could be argued about interpretation of the regs... but pointless marking L and N but not Earth when they all enter in singles.
 
Had the SWA’s been terminated to a non-conductive enclosure I’d agree with you. In this case the various glands are connected by the containment making individual leads back to the EMT pointless.
 
Had the SWA’s been terminated to a non-conductive enclosure I’d agree with you. In this case the various glands are connected by the containment making individual leads back to the EMT pointless.

Just to clear a few things up mains to db's hadn't been terminated @ time of photo which is the reason no main earth carried to earth bar. Any two circuits adjacent to each other which enter same board when glanded have banjos pushed together and 1 brass bolt for flying lead to reduce amount of flying leads & space required making iding earths difficult, although I can't honestly see where any electrician could ever be confused coming across this setup, I've personally seen this setup numerous times. I am of the opinion that when metal db"s trunking etc used its fine to put just a global earth wire & serrated washers or banjo. Have come across many historic installs where old swa cables just been glanded to top of db with serrated washers (no flying lead) and when carrying out testing have never had a problem, addition of flying leads (for every gland) is just purely cosmetic in my opinion but would never omit myself, as I have had to fit banjos and flying leads retrospectively to a db which tested fine but was deemed not up to standard by an inspector. Never seen two banjos on the one gland before can't see much benefit in it although don't have a problem with it. This also comes in paperback.
 
You’d be looking for a new job if I saw you running separate earth bonds for each cable. It’s a waste of materials and confusing.

All our panels with small SWA’s like that would have two banjo’s per gland and a single 16mm[SUP]2[/SUP] bond to the EMT. The banjo’s on the outside so there was brass to brass contact.

Earth%20tags_zpsx877cywc.jpg

That looks like it will be much neater, can i ask what determines the size of the bond? you state 16mm2 but is that by calculation or just experience?
 
essex-electrician-14.jpg
This is one of my more recent jobs. She could not stretch to a panel heater so I said I would loosen off the neutral so she could have a consumer unit / heater combo.
OBVIOUSLY, THAT COULD NEVER HAPPEN IN A STEEL CU, COULD IT? :ack2:
 
Not directly an install but made me laugh when I saw this in a mess room.

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that's the combustible CU problem solved. fit a tap above the CU with a temperature controlled valve. soon as the temperature reaches 85 deg. C, tap turns on, extinguishes fire. nationwide that'll be 5000 firefighters made redundant, or demoted to getting ----- cats out of trees.
 
That looks like it will be much neater, can i ask what determines the size of the bond? you state 16mm2 but is that by calculation or just experience?

At one time M&Q specified 7/064 /16mm[SUP]2[/SUP] as minimum and I’ve always stuck with that. Our stores would usually have a couple of 100m of it and I’d rather have my fingernails pulled out than try to get them to order anything different. Looks a bit silly when you have a 1.5 2c SWA with a 16mm run to it, but it’s what they wanted
 
I'm just bumping some of the older threads in the general electrical forum that had a lot of replies. They might not be current topics, if they're not, just ignore them and they'll soon drop off the list. If you DO wish to add a reply and get the conversation going again, feel free to do so. Your input might help somebody else in the future.
 
Very tidy. First class job.

Some minor points (I'd be failing if I didn't think of something):
Lump of crud sitting on top of main switch.
Slight tilt on breakers, particularly towards the RH end.
No space for additional circuits.
 
Very tidy. First class job.

Some minor points (I'd be failing if I didn't think of something):
Lump of crud sitting on top of main switch.
Slight tilt on breakers, particularly towards the RH end.
No space for additional circuits.


Yep well spotted, i assure you it's not there now lol.

I just get given the materials to do the job. I hate MK boards personally.

:smile:
 
Yep well spotted, i assure you it's not there now lol.

I just get given the materials to do the job. I hate MK boards personally.

:smile:

No matter how hard you try you can't help the tilt with the mcb's on these boards when getting a good purchase on the busbar.....the boards are a pile of turd IMHO. Pukka job though, nice and neat with no exposed conductors.
 
Cracking job Simon.
 
Consumer unit upgrade I did sub contracting recently. Materials were provided. Took me an hour to straighten my back out after that one. The cupboard was an awkward squeeze to say the least with gas pipes in the way as well.
image.jpgimage.jpg
 
It's the dis board changes that I struggle with most to get neat, the cables are never always long enough! Some properly neat work on here lads, it nice to see people taking pride in their work!
 
Looks spot on mate.

Thanks :)

It's the dis board changes that I struggle with most to get neat, the cables are never always long enough! Some properly neat work on here lads, it nice to see people taking pride in their work!

i just find a lot of its in the planning. I tend to take the internals out and find the best method of entry for cables. Then I connect up the cpcs and neutrals (after testing of course). Then I put the internals back in connect in the meter tails and then finally the lines.
 
Depending on how many circuits there are, how much time I have and what mood I'm in, I take more time I suppose you could say? I never leave a board a mess and they always look very presentable, however, some end up looking better than others.

I tend to leave a bit of length in the cables which doesn't always help, I can get a normal split board a lot neater than an RCBO board, just because of the space constraints.

Some good pictures on here though.
 
Sorry it is sideways, this was an effort to bring the previous CCU from ceiling height to more accessible height using Wago Din Rail box

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If the terminals are rated then not a problem, just a bit dog rough at the sake of replacing the back board IMHO.

Edit - I assume there are some blanks for the backboard cutouts but still would have looked more professional with a clean piece of board.
 
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Was never going to be sure what to do, so covered all base with inspection holes. They do have lids in the finished article. The Wago box is not metal, and decided it was not switch gear. Was curious on that point. Cheers
 

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