Discuss Din Rail Enclosure in the Electrical Tools and Products area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi,

Does anyone know where I can get a Din Rail Enclosure like this, well this size,

Dimensions (w x h x d) 300mm x 220mm x 120mm

Basically the Wago DRE-5 DIN Rail Enclosure, which It wont let me link to.

For less money?

The other thought I had was to use an empty MK consumer unit to put them all in? Do you think that would be a cowboy job or acceptable? It would fit and save me £30+

It just to extend a load of circuits and move the board lower down the wall.
 
Yeah I know the forum was stripping bit out, but if you google for that enclosure you will see, I've tried eddies etc and none of them do one similar in size. What do you reckon to using an empty consumer unit if I fit a load of blanks into the front and label it etc. I'll assemble one in a bit and put a pic up then you can see.
 
go here: WEBSITEADDRESS.com/shop/topjob-din-rail-mounted-terminals/din-rail-accessories/dre-5-din-rail-enclosure.html

but replace WEBSITEADDRESS with wagobox
 
I have solved my problem, im going to use a spare MK consumer unit chasis, the front, ive got some clear perspex ill glue to the read of the hole instead of blanks, seems to fit, once all the connectors are on and the end stops, it will look fine, its going to me a matching MK consumer unit fitted below anyway, so it will look ok. Ill peel the stickers off etc and clean it up, I feel there's probably just enough room to get the conductors in ok, ill try it later.

2014-05-31 13.57.41.jpg2014-05-31 13.58.04.jpg2014-05-31 13.58.18.jpg
2014-05-31 13.58.51.jpg2014-05-31 13.59.35.jpg
 
dinrail.jpg

here's one i made earlier.the cpc of the 10mm was re-dressed after the pic.
 
Here's one i did before too, just trying to save on costs as doing the whole job for £300 inc new board for 10 circuits. Just means I make another £30 odd pound using this old ox, well its new, just a spare empty one.
DSC06015.JPG
 
Keep the empty CU for another job and get yourself a plastic adaptable box. You can buy them with a precut bit of din rail pretty cheaply.

Using the CU enclosure as a joint box is going to look like a bit of a bodge, even if it is compliant.
 
Using the CU enclosure as a joint box is going to look like a bit of a bodge, even if it is compliant.

I don't know you know, it's looking pretty good actually, I am quite impressed with the almost finished article! Just need to wait for something to dry then ill take a picture.

Now, usually I would go and buy an enclosure, but the customer wants to keep the cost right down and this is the next alternative. Like I said im only charging £300 for the whole job anyway and making pittance in labour.
 
OK check this out... all finished. Do you still think it will look a bodge? I don't, personally I think it will look good, with that at the top, and a matching one 3ft lower with a bit of trunking between. it cleaned up too. Nice! Comments appreciated.

2014-05-31 19.36.45.jpg2014-05-31 19.36.34.jpg
 
Yes, I would still think it was a bit suspect if I encountered it in an installation.

It looks like a DIY effort at achieving something which could have been simpler.

Does the cost of the MK board, the Perspex and your time to put it together equal less than a plastic dappy box with din rail?
 
Well as I had am empty cu box as above, I already had a load of Perspex, it only took a few mins to cut it out then stick it in, this way it's not cost me anything. At the end of the day I think it will look fine with two of these on the wall, you only need to open the flap and you can see what's in it.

i don't think it looks messy, or DIYish particularly, it shuts with a matching lid so it all looks like an enclosure .
 
If the customer doesn't want to pay for a proper box then he gets this, it's the only way I could get the price down, I am not making a total of £165 profit on the job.
 
I kind of get the idea of the CU - have 2 CUs next to each other instead of a CU and an adaptable box, but a CU is meant primarily for safety isolation devices, not exclusively for wagos with a bit of perspex over the front.
I agree with Dave - I reckon an adaptable box would be cheaper, possibly better suited, and even look more professional because it wouldn't look like something it isn't. If you're going to stick with the CU, at least take the ident stickers off.
 
If the customer won't pay to have the job done properly then walk away, don't lower your standards to account for them wanting a cheaper job. If you know they are going to try and knock your prices down then add a bit on to your price so that you can 'do them a favour and round it down a bit' when they ask.

Are you saying that the empty box and the Perspex were free when you originally got them?
 
I totally accept that it would be better to use a proper enclosure but this had cost nothing where an adaptable box big enough inc postage will set me back £30 which the customer does not want to pay. Yes usually use wago enclosures, but if they don't want to pay for it I'm not going to turn the job down.

this enclosure is perfectly safe and acceptable, not compromised it at all in terms of ip rating.
 
Well the Perspex I think my neighbour gave me if I remember, and the cu that was purchased my a customer as his rcd had gone and I charged him £50 for a new one when screwfix had the boxes on offer at £50 and I gutted it and was left with a shell, I've got a couple more empty ones.

I accept what you are saying and that I shouldn't lower my standards, but is rather have the money, and I don't think it's lowering my standards as such as it's not messy, ok it wasn't designed for it, but it will be a neat tidy job, when I do it in a week or so I'll take plenty of photos and then you can see yourself.
 
Postage? What's wrong with your local wholesaler?
Where and how did you get that mk box for free?

I just don't get this whole the customer doesn't want to pay for that malarkey. you submit an honest price for what it costs to do the job properly, they either accept it or they don't.
 
Eddies said they don't do one of the size I need, they said they are the only ones. I refuse to uses neweys and cef.

the box was paid for by another customer as they paid for an rcd and I kept the rest.

You are clearly in the position to turn work down for the sake of £30 then, I'd rather get the job, take the money and move on.
 
I'm not a cowboy, please clearly state what is wrong with using this enclosure...? other than it physically having a different look to it, what is the problem?
 
When you get to the point where you have to glue a bit of plastic left over from another job into a spare CU you have in the shed in order to actually make a job worthwhile then I think you need to take a serious look at your pricing structure.

If when I visit a property to do a quote for a job and they are genuinely hard-up but the work is necessary for safety or whatever then I will put materials in at cost and put the labour in at my 'regular customer' rate, But otherwise the price is what it is and if they don't like it they can go elsewhere.
9 times out of 10 when i've said no to reducing a price when they turn around and accept the original price anyway.
And then quite often they use the 'the other quote was £50 cheaper can you match that?' approach, I advise them to accept the 'other quote' and they turn around and accept my price anyway (Hint, often there isn't another quote).

It is easy to loose sight of the fact that a self employed person will always come in cheaper than a company quoting for the same job, they have much higher overheads to meet.

I'm running a business not a charity!
 
I'm not a cowboy, please clearly state what is wrong with using this enclosure...? other than it physically having a different look to it, what is the problem?

It was not designed for the purpose.

It has not been type tested or approved for the purpose.

The manufacturer did not intend for it to be used this way.

The perspex is unlikely to have undergone the necessary flamability tests to be used as an electrical enclosure

The glue may fail and the perspex fall out.

Adaptable boxes cost less than a tenner

Adapting an existing CU to become a joint box is sometimes necessary if it cant be removed for whatever reason (eg, flush mounted) but generally speaking you'd make up a complete new cover out of a metal sheet or suitable insulating sheet (eg, paxolin)
To be perfectly honest you'd probably come under less flak if you'd riveted a bit of plastic trunking lid inside the hole rather than the clear perspex.
 
Ok ill use an adaptable box, you say you can get one big enough for under a tenner, prove it, show me where I can get one 300mm wide for £10 and ill buy it.

Enought said, ill get a box, but you CANNOT get one for £10 that big.
 
I see where you are coming from saying that two of the same enclosures will look good next to each other to joe public compared to an adaptable box bu5 would be un easy with this. Only you can decide as only you know the quality of material used etc etc. I would push for the extra cash for a box to be happy.
 
Ok ill use an adaptable box, you say you can get one big enough for under a tenner, prove it, show me where I can get one 300mm wide for £10 and ill buy it.

Enought said, ill get a box, but you CANNOT get one for £10 that big.

Any local electrical wholesaler who you have built up a good working relationship with and have got reasonable discounts set up on your account.

I've had a look in my books and the last time I bought a bigger adaptable box it was a 12x9x3 BE for £9.60
 
We use adaptable boxes for interfaces, termination and din power supplies, and never worry about mounting fixtures.....Its a straight 4mm hole through the rear of the box and din rail, then a rivets. That din rails going nowhere, and is where we want it.
 
This thread has made me laugh. What a mountain made from a mole hill. Aahh the worries of the domestic spark.

You keep thinking outside the box squire...

ga5epaha.jpg



It was not designed for the purpose.

It has not been type tested or approved for the purpose.

The manufacturer did not intend for it to be used this way.

The manufacturer didn't design it to have a few screw terminals in?...oh really...it's not as if he's using it as a kettle...ha ha...
 
The manufacturer didn't design it to have a few screw terminals in?...oh really...it's not as if he's using it as a kettle...ha ha...

Who said anything about screw terminals? Those din terminals appear to be sprung loaded type, no screws in sight.

And they certainly didn't design it to have a bit of perspex glued in to the front of it to turn it into a joint box. There is a pretty high chance that the glue used is not suitable for making a good permanent bond to either one or the other of the materials, the chances of the glue failing and the perspex falling out are pretty high.
 
I'm not going to use it now anyway, there's not a chance it will come off as I stuck it with silicone that you build fish tanks with, sticks literally anything to anything.
 
You do like to rock the boat dont you Tom :smile5:

I think I'd have to agree with Davesparks here though. I can see what your saying, you think you have done something a bit out of the mainstream that is ok, but like Dave said at some point the perspex will come out, even if its many years down the line it cannot be compared to an adaptable box that has been screwed together. If I'd done that It would always be in the back of mind that the perspex will fall out and some layman will put there hand in there.

I think you were right to change your mind and use the correct accessory.
 

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