Discuss Shower pull switch opperating on load in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

I would imagine the pull switch would only have a 10 or 15 amp rating ?
If this is not suficient, try using a pull switch to control a 30a contactor.
that way the contactor does all the hard work ?
What a 45Amp pull switch only has a possible 10amp rating? and use a contactor? bit of a weird statement if I may be so bold.
 
15A rating? Contactor? Am I on the right thread here?
 
The only pull switchs I have seen are domestic type which are usually only 10 or 15 A at best, so I assumed thats what you were refering to. I have not seen a 45A pull switch ever. Is it suffering mechanical failure or is it clearly an electrical rating problem ?
 
The only pull switchs I have seen are domestic type which are usually only 10 or 15 A at best, so I assumed thats what you were refering to. I have not seen a 45A pull switch ever. Is it suffering mechanical failure or is it clearly an electrical rating problem ?
With respect, you should get out more then.
45A or 50A pull switches for showers are as common as muck

Screenshot 2017-04-04 07.53.54.png
 
The only pull switchs I have seen are domestic type which are usually only 10 or 15 A at best, so I assumed thats what you were refering to. I have not seen a 45A pull switch ever. Is it suffering mechanical failure or is it clearly an electrical rating problem ?
you're looking at light switches. over here we have 45A ceiling mounted pull switches for thing like showers. maybe in australia they are floor mounted. :oops:
 
Nope you are quite right. There's no regulation in BS7671 to say 'when installing an electric shower for Mrs Pete999, there must be a form of local double pole isolation, with 3mm gap blah blah'.

537.3.2.1 suggests a circuit breaker is suitable means of isolation, although further guidance on this, can be obtained from Table 53.4 note (5). There's others, which I can't see the point of arguing over. Only TN supplies, think your up a gum tree with TT, but don't quote me.

134.1.1 'Good workmanship etc etc. The installation of electrical equipment shall take account of manufacturers instructions'.

I believe most, if not all domestic shower manufacturers recommend a double pole 'switch' ceiling mounted, or wall mounted in an adjacent room.

Seems like the manufactures see it as a good idea, who am I to argue?
Every so often someone says a shower or cooker needn't have a local DP isolator, but as I've said before BS7671 is the minimum standard we should adhere to and it's common sense to have an easy way to switch off anything electrical without faffing about at the CU. And if say a neutral to earth fault developed on a dual RCD board at the shower you'd lose half of the installation until the cable in the shower was disconnected.
Just wanted to give a "like" for this post :)
 
QUOTE [ It turns out these shower units are not common in Oz ] END QUOTE

quite correct,
most hot water in Australia is tank/storage type,
usually around 2000 to 3000W @ 240Vac
maybe we are quite a bit more temperite
to me anything below 20 celcius is cold
I get the impression that the UK is quite a bit cooler ?
i have seen only a couple of tankless heaters in my lifetime
but they are mainly gas powered and only in much colder climates.
Such as the blue mountains.
Carry on chaps !
 
QUOTE [ It turns out these shower units are not common in Oz ] END QUOTE

quite correct,
most hot water in Australia is tank/storage type,
usually around 2000 to 3000W @ 240Vac
maybe we are quite a bit more temperite
to me anything below 20 celcius is cold
I get the impression that the UK is quite a bit cooler ?
i have seen only a couple of tankless heaters in my lifetime
but they are mainly gas powered and only in much colder climates.
Such as the blue mountains.
Carry on chaps !
May blow the froth off a couple thisafter:)
 

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