Discuss Spur of a Cooker unit for under cabinet lighta in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Afternoon guys quick question

It’s been a year after the kitchen has been competed and now I’m looking at doing led strip lights under the cabinets on the plynths.

on one side of the kitchen I only have available 2 cooker isolating switches that I wired in for the induction hob and the electric cooker.

My plan is to spur off the outgoing of one of them in 6mm to a single socket immediately below them and plug the led lights it. They are 0.7 Amp zigbee lights.

is this ok? My only worry is an I correctly fusing the spur and would need an extra fused spur between the socket and the cooker switch. I can’t wire the led straight into a fused spur because it’s a molded plug with a transformer in it. I’ve added pictures for help
image.jpg
 
off 1 cooker outlet to 5A FCU then to socket as it's unlikely that the plug in PSU is fused
 
Getting 2 * 6mm in to one of the existing switches for a spur is going to be difficult.

If could put the new socket box adjacent to one of them so you could use a conduit coupler and two short bushes between them (so very little risk of cable damage) you could use a 1.5mm spur to a single 13A socket for the lights.

However going with the off side-mounted cooker outlet is going to be far easier and no additional box cutting and/or decorating to cover it up.
 
A socket-outlet could be connected to one of those circuits using 2.5mm² or as PC1966 says, even 1.5, although I personally would use 2.5 because it might be re-purposed later and there is more elbow-room with 2.5. The cable will be protected against overload by the nature of the socket, and against faults by the 32A MCB. All subject to the RCD of course.

I agree that some wall warts / adaptors that are not made to proper standards lack fusing, but that problem would be no different here versus plugged into the ring, plus a dodgy wall wart could be dodgy in other ways. So I wouldn't add an FCU to deal with that, I would bin it and get a proper one. It could possibly be replaced with and adaptor / PDE driver that has a mains cable rather than a plug, so that it could be wired into an FCU.
 

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