Discuss Cutting trunking and cable tray in the Electrical Tools and Products area at ElectriciansForums.net

Hacksaw for the trunking (it's just practice). Diamond bladed angle grinder for the tray. Others opinions will of course vary along with the qualitfy of the cutting ;)
 
a 1mm disc for a 115mm grinder. Cant go wrong. Always best to master the basic tools first though. It must the the way you are holding the hacksaw, or your blade is too loose.
 
Is this thread for real?

Yet again deeply shocked by questions that arise on this site, all the skill and knowledge has completely fell out of the job, i learnt how to cut straight in a woodwork class in primary school at around 6-7 year old
 
Is this thread for real?

Yet again deeply shocked by questions that arise on this site, all the skill and knowledge has completely fell out of the job, i learnt how to cut straight in a woodwork class in primary school at around 6-7 year old
No such thing as woodwork anymore, it's technology and materials now :)
 
he's probably been given a junior hacksaw. OK for plastic mini trunking. try a proper hacksaw with a 32tpi blade.
 
Is this thread for real?

Yet again deeply shocked by questions that arise on this site, all the skill and knowledge has completely fell out of the job, i learnt how to cut straight in a woodwork class in primary school at around 6-7 year old
i was 12, must have been a slow learner. anyway we weren't allowed anything sharper than a rubber mallet in primary school,
 
I don't like diamond blades for ferrous materials as there is carbon in the steel and the diamond is carbon, not a good combination really.
These new 1mm disks are good though the do well in my 18V Bosch cordless angle grinder.
Other option for basket is a clipper cut bolt cropper.
As far as the manual way goes, solid hold on the job, good hacksaw frame, not £1 shop special.
Fine blade i.e. 32tpi as above, good lot of tension and practice.

When I was an apprentice all the trades had to hacksaw out and file to fit, a square in a square, that took some doing, we also all had to make a drill angle gauge for the standard 118 deg drill point, and learn to sharpen a drill by hand, and keep doing it until we had it right! :eek:
 
it's still bloody wood. ( from a tree, or is it now from a synthetic source now)
 
i dont think that there is any proper instruction about how to use tools correctly these days, (and im only 24). The amount of people i see holding hammers halh way up the shaft, or not sticking their finger ion the side of a saw. I was very lucky to have had poper teachers at school who taught us how to use tools properly. I could braze, cast ali, and solder/silver solder before i left school. Along with vacuum forming plastics, and making the wooden moulds ect.

still, would you trust modern kids with a sharp implement?
 
well, you can get a A level in science now by making a stink bomb out of an old pair of knickers and some battery acid ( recycling at it's best.)
 
Is MDF proven carcenogenic?, is this going to become the new "asbestos" in 10-20 years time, masks and special licenses to remove it?
I had thought it was something to do with the bonding agent (formaldehyde?) and size of dust particles. Not sure on what the latest "evidence" suggests though.
 
anyways back to the question, good hacksaw and knowledge how to use it.
I had a brilliant one from b & q of all places and roughly about a tenner, always cut straight and true (loved it) was working with brother and he borrowed it and i never saw it again! still hurts !
bought the exact same model and a pile of crap! i hate bringing it out of my tool box (it's cursed)this post just reminded me. i wonder if i could take it back? ive had a year or two but it can't cut straight!
 
a brief scan of thatdocument seems to indicate that MDF is safe. so were the titanic and hindenberg.
 
We all have a learning curve so for a imformative response first check the hacksaw blade is correct the thicker and stronger the material the greater no' of teeth you need e.g.thick metal 32teeth and plastic wood etc 18teeth, a 24/28 hacksaw blade tends to be good all rounder, secondly it has to be held tight in the hacksaw as cheap hacksaws allow blade to flex and buckle then finally the item you cut has to be firmly held if it moves about most of your energy is lost in doing so. Unfortunately the basics nowadays are skipped over too fast and not really taught anymore they rely on work collegues to do this but that rarely happens if all the above is satisfied then the rest is just learning to cut straight which comes with time.
When a job has numerous cuts to make just hire a chop saw with metal cutting blade and angle adjustment as it dont cost much and saves hours of labour.
 
Last edited:
The issue with Asbestos is the physical properties of the fibres being barbed and with such an aerodynamic make up that they can be carried right into the Alveoli in the depths of the lung, once there they stick into the side walls of he alveoli and the body then attempts to remove them, which creates scar tissue which never stops growing, think oysters & pearls.
MDF, can contain hard wood dusts which are know asthmagens, and can also be carcinogens.
This depends on the quality control of the MDF.
UK, possibly EU & US produced MDF probably be OK.
Elsewhere in the world, possibly even the 3rd world, no chance of knowing, and they probably don't care.
Also the adhesive used used to be a problem, however, this has been changed, again in UK, EU & US materials, again the rest of the world who knows!

Fibreglass has by its physical properties a smooth fibre, thus the body can remove this as a foreign body much more easily than a barbed fibre such as asbestos.
However, we don't know what other stuff was put in the early fibreglass insulation.
Current product I believe will be safe.
Fibreglass is a man made material, Asbestosis natural.
The issues with glass fibre would come from bad manufacturing, the lucky thing is it is really cheaper to make it right, this the possibilities of poor quality are reduced.
 
Some unnecessarily harsh replies here but I agree that it's worth mastering the hacksaw before you start looking for easier ways using power tools - you never know when you're going to be on a site where you don't have a suitable power supply for whatever power tool you've got, then the humble manual hacksaw will get you out of the mire.
 

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