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Hamilton switch... burnt out !

Discuss Hamilton switch... burnt out ! in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

sythai

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Hi Guys

After bit of advice please....

Called back to kitchen job today, Hamilton light switch we fitted has burnt out?!
Normally decent gear so just trying to make sure nothing we have done (as Client not so friendly on this one.)

Switch in question is powering all the feature lighting which consists of:

4x75watt (240watts being used) & 1x40watt (30watts being used)/ 24v drivers running various LED cabinet lights.

Trying to check back spec of drivers can only find data sheet for 100watt version so be less than this:
Input 1.2amps so well under 10amp rating of switch and even before that it's on own 6a rcbo (new db installed) which would trip if overloaded.
But on spec sheet has inrush current <15amps, could this be causing the prob ? Not something I'm so familiar with being honest.

Hoping it's just the switch

Thanks Sy
Screenshot 2023-03-17 at 14.48.44.png
 
I would remove the yellow cover .Would give more detail . Never had ONE issue with hamiltons .Very nice gear
same here.. decent stuff used for yonks !

I'm going to send back as less than 12months old and was bespoke item cost £25.
so don't really want to pull part and not be able to get back together... if you know what I mean.
 
I'd be very surprised if an instantaneous theoretical 15A inrush would cause that amount of damage - has it failed open or closed? There must be hundreds of thousands of 10A switches interrupting LED drivers up and down the land without issue, why should this one be any different?

I would be sending it back to Hamiltons for an inspection under warranty to see what they have to say.
 
I'd be very surprised if an instantaneous theoretical 15A inrush would cause that amount of damage - has it failed open or closed? There must be hundreds of thousands of 10A switches interrupting LED drivers up and down the land without issue, why should this one be any different?

I would be sending it back to Hamiltons for an inspection under warranty to see what they have to say.
failed open.... it's going back to Hamilton, see what the outcome is
 
The melted plastic alongside the switch mechanism, suggests that the heat came from the contacts, not the wiring terminals. High resistance or arcing could be caused by lack of pressure e.g. something mechanically broken, jammed or dirty, or faulty manufacture of the contacts themselves. I agree it's not likely to be caused directly by inrush, only by the continuous load. Excessive inrush can cause contact wear and damage and in time lead to failure, but not immediately. The switch is rated 10AX which means it doesn't need derating for inductive fluorescent / discharge lamp loads. LED drivers are not inductive so it's not directly comparable but it does mean the contacts are designed with inrush durability in mind.

Re. the CE mark, that is not the correct form and I too would be put on guard by a product from a reputable manufacturer with an incorrect marking. If the C is made into a complete circle it should just overlay the nearest side of the E. Non-standard marks like this have sometimes been used on non-compliant products and passed off as a different 'China Export' mark which is a scam.
 
The melted plastic alongside the switch mechanism, suggests that the heat came from the contacts, not the wiring terminals. High resistance or arcing could be caused by lack of pressure e.g. something mechanically broken, jammed or dirty, or faulty manufacture of the contacts themselves. I agree it's not likely to be caused directly by inrush, only by the continuous load. Excessive inrush can cause contact wear and damage and in time lead to failure, but not immediately. The switch is rated 10AX which means it doesn't need derating for inductive fluorescent / discharge lamp loads. LED drivers are not inductive so it's not directly comparable but it does mean the contacts are designed with inrush durability in mind.

Re. the CE mark, that is not the correct form and I too would be put on guard by a product from a reputable manufacturer with an incorrect marking. If the C is made into a complete circle it should just overlay the nearest side of the E. Non-standard marks like this have sometimes been used on non-compliant products and passed off as a different 'China Export' mark which is a scam.
Thanks Lucien very helpful and informative of you 🤩
 





Both types shown
 
Found this page.


There is also a Uk gov page that links out to a European site, but doesn’t show both CE marks
 
Wouldn't be at all surprised if they were counterfeit. You'd be surprised how much counterfeit stuff gets into 'proper' supply chains. Its not just ebay and amazon.
 
Wouldn't be at all surprised if they were counterfeit. You'd be surprised how much counterfeit stuff gets into 'proper' supply chains. Its not just ebay and amazon.
Virgin Records know all about that ! trading standards once claimed up to 30% of their vinyl and CD's where fake .Not Virgins fault directly , just cheating suppliers !
 
Good spot @LukeD (post 14), first unit has proper CE mark, second one dubious. Of course it could just be that their subcontractor doesn't have the right artwork and the dimmer is completely genuine, but I wouldn't be letting that out on one of our products because I would hope that savvy customers would question its authenticity. I've seen quite a few dodgy misshapen or mirror-image kitemarks on counterfeit and unapproved moulded plugs and cord sets, that the casual user would take to be an approval.
 
Virgin Records know all about that ! trading standards once claimed up to 30% of their vinyl and CD's where fake .Not Virgins fault directly , just cheating suppliers !

Good example. I saw an interesting documentary a few years ago which showed how counterfeit Ford spares actually got into the smaller Ford dealerships. They weren't even aware.
 

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