Discuss Neutrals at switches in the Australia area at ElectriciansForums.net

With so many cables in a backbox there is certainly a more likelihood of damage to one of them cables. Especially in regards to screwing the faceplate on.
 
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hope this works
 
It's closed, case dismissed, the prosecution failed to turn up!

sorry iq I forgot that you are always right.

ok to conclude

back in the day 'we' was taught not to do it
there is not a reg against it
modern wiring practices have adopted the method, just wish crabtree, mk and others would.

Not been on the tools for 10 years, but I think i would use the looped neutral at switches now, if it made things easier, but I certainly would not have considered it before today!

I am converted....
 
Why do you disagree with it? most connections are within a screw terminal of some sort or other, thats all a block is

ok lets go to bigger switches, and by that I mean 4, 5 ,6 gangs and upwards, and you had maybe 5,6 feeds at the one switch, its going to look pretty ugly, and what would you think if you took the switch off and 7 connector blocks sprung out at you!
 
personnaly neutral at switch because im fed up of going round to my brothers every time he buys new lights and they wont switch cuz the dope has bundled everything that is brown in the same block and i have to sort it out.
 
personnaly neutral at switch because im fed up of going round to my brothers every time he buys new lights and they wont switch cuz the dope has bundled everything that is brown in the same block and i have to sort it out.

but how many times have you been asked to fix a light 'cos be blows up when the switch is turned on, always a nice little earner
 
ok lets go to bigger switches, and by that I mean 4, 5 ,6 gangs and upwards, and you had maybe 5,6 feeds at the one switch, its going to look pretty ugly, and what would you think if you took the switch off and 7 connector blocks sprung out at you!

Yep, agree with you but generally I think the post was directed at normal run of the mill rewire.
 
ok lets go to bigger switches, and by that I mean 4, 5 ,6 gangs and upwards, and you had maybe 5,6 feeds at the one switch, its going to look pretty ugly, and what would you think if you took the switch off and 7 connector blocks sprung out at you!

And that could be a scenario where neutrals at the switch are not a good idea.

Again, as a competent designer /installer, you choose the wiring system that best suits the installation, don't just make sweeping statements on whether a method is right or wrong!

I'm certainly not always right, but I try to look at things objectively without propagating the weird myths that seem to pop up constantly.
 
Been working on and doing this myself for a while. Its common in new build apartments i have found and also i do it when wiring for down lights. Saves guessing what light the guy put the rats nest of a joint box. Nothing wrong with it just a "modern" way i guess.
 
What if customer wants to change from normal switching to dimmer?? Changing accessory now becomes more than a straight forward switch from one to the other.
 
The dog that is removed from the reds in the middle had 11 cables going into it, had worked loose because it was under the landing floor, luckily the house is to be rewired this year
 
switch/loop at ceiling:
ring/radial:
swa/conduit
pvc conduit/steel conduit

we all have our own preferences and ways of doing things and as long as its to the regs and is fit for purpose it does not matter why we choose one over the other. different circumstances call for different approaches to the situation and methods
 
sorry I am more of an commercial/industrial installer
Why can you not do the 'loop into the switch' method in a commercial/industrial situation?

  • If the client wants the emergency lights switched separately (eg in a corridor where they want the lights to stay on during a light test) the auxiliary terminal would be fed from the keyswitch so you wouldn't be able to use it as live loop, so you'd need to link the loop in the back of the box which doesn't leave you much room to screw the lid back.
  • You'd have exactly the same problem with finding the rose which the switch wire comes off - why spend ages up a ladder or on top of desks when you can just take the switch off?
  • Looping in to the switch makes moving/rewiring individual circuits a lot more straightforward - strip the circuit back to the switch and continue it from there.
Obviously if you were wiring using singles you wouldn't loop anywhere.
 
I use both, but the 'side' against seems more militant. I can think of at least one valid reason why you shouldn't do it, particularly on 2 way circuits, but I don't see why I should mention it - I've picked my side now.
 
i feed switches when there is a two gang or above switch.wall lights or outside lights.just makes life easier.and you use less cable.you cant tell me its better practise to feed some of these wall lights with the amount of space they give you for connections.ridiculous.i use both methods to best suit situation!
 
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Don't see why anyone would have a problem with this. Must just be ignorance having been taught it another way. And don't know how some people have NEVER come across a lighting circuit wired this way:confused:
 
I think the difference is having a decent apprenticeship where you was taught what was what, and not what these new kids on the block get taught at college today, then go out into the big world of sparking without any practical experience.

That is possibly one of the most sweeping and moronic statements i have ever read on this site. I served a 3 year apprenticeship with a well respected local NIC EIC approved contracting firm and i learnt both methods of wiring lighting circuits.

sorry I am more of an commercial/industrial installer

And i think this sums up why you have never come across looped supplies at a switch as you're obviously far more au fait with singles in conduit.

Curious to know how you would wire a room with only 5A sockets, wall lights or a number of recessed lights. Where abouts would you put a junction box where all the connections were easily accessible? I think i'll just continue doing it wrong by feeding the switch and faffing about with a maximum of two cables at each fitting. :rolleyes:
 
Let me put it this way then, .... I wouldn't and haven't allowed it on any of my projects in the past, and wont allow it on my next project!!! If a neutral is needed for outside lights and the like, fine i have no-problem with that, but i do have a problem with using the switch points as junction boxes as a wiring system!!! No Way Ho Say!!!!!

Only ever seen this tried once on a project, and that was on a stand alone smallish building on a large shopping centre complex. In this case the building was very much like a normal house build, and using T&E wiring methods. Only caught it after a good 2/3rds of the first fix had been installed. Just the same, ...it all came out!!!

I would love to know how you justified the extra cost to the customer just to suit your idealistic approach, you appear to be closed to change so I can only assume you still use rubber cable!!

I'm getting to understand the meaning of Domestic installers now!!!! :mad::eek:

Was there any need for this comment


With regard to apprenticeships I was taught to loop lives at the switch and neutrals at the light fitting using 6241y and 6181y. Whats next will we not be able to use all the different methods of two way switching because it doesn't suit one person

Still not sure why after 140+ posts there is still no valid explanation why neutral should not be looped at the switch, I think the comments regarding damage by the switch fixing screws is a bit lame as I have seen plenty of live cables damaged by screws
 
Originally Posted by MrEnigma
I think the difference is having a decent apprenticeship where you was taught what was what, and not what these new kids on the block get taught at college today, then go out into the big world of sparking without any practical experience.

That is possibly one of the most sweeping and moronic statements i have ever read on this site. I served a 3 year apprenticeship with a well respected local NIC EIC approved contracting firm and i learnt both methods of wiring lighting circuits.

I agree. I get the feeling that all the people so against neutrals at the switch are old school middle aged sparks who don't like change and are stuck in their ways.

Maybe I just made a sweeping and moronic statement myself lol
 
Risk falling of a ladder what about takeing a Zs reading....Hold on lets just do the calculation Zs= Ze + R1 + R2 like the Niceic say to do.

I've never seen this and never ever been taught to this. Il also never teach anyone to do it.

Must be wrong if you've never seen it or been taught it then! :cool:
 
Also if you've got a dimmer switch less room

When I'm wiring any new install I fit 35mm Metal back boxes as standard everywhere (makes fitting slimplate/screwless accessories SO much easier) and have even fitted 47mm back boxes for switches as I asked the client before hand to ensure we all knew what type of switch is to be fitted.

I never use the 16mm or even 25mm boxes anymore

I'm all for wiring at the switch
 
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Must be wrong if you've never seen it or been taught it then! :cool:

I don't think anyone has said its wrong just that some would not do it. A more valid point was the one of adding to the circuit. It becomes much more of a ballache than having to lift boards up and looping out of the rose to an extra light. Instead having to chase wall just to carry on loop to an extra fitting.

Nope never came across this ever.
 
I don't think anyone has said its wrong just that some would not do it. A more valid point was the one of adding to the circuit. It becomes much more of a ballache than having to lift boards up and looping out of the rose to an extra light. Instead having to chase wall just to carry on loop to an extra fitting.

Nope never came across this ever.

It was saying it was wrong that caused this thread to take off, along with casting doubt on the training of 'neutral in the box' practitioners and an implication that this was something unique to domestic installers!
 
It was saying it was wrong that caused this thread to take off, along with casting doubt on the training of 'neutral in the box' practitioners and an implication that this was something unique to domestic installers!

IQ you become so pedantic at times and pop up just to have your say when it suits you. Mainly when wronging someone.
 

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