PAT testing fixed appliances?

[rasell]

This seems to be a grey area in the industry, the code says fixed appliances should be PAT tested but alot of the common PAT testing equipment cannot handle this sort of test.
I've come across different answers:
1. don't pat test fixed equipment
2. only do a visual + earth bond with a multimeter
3. some testers have in-situ earth bond / touch current tests
4. use PAT equipment that has probes, either at the back of the equipment or the connector box or fusebox to test
5. PAT testers should not take apart accessories or rewire things

Can anyone shed any light on this? I've seen a safety block advertised which can be used to connect via a plug to a PAT machine.

The multifunction devices don't have sufficient AMPs for PAT testing which can be up to 26A.

 

[sbrown2]

Hi

I test second hand equipment in a charity shop as it needs to be tested for resale. I use a AVO PAT 4 Tester. Portable appliances with a three pin plug are no problem. Anything else and I use adaptors some made and tested by myself and multimeter to test. Also with fixed appliances I add an additional label that states "This is a fixed appliance and needs installing by a competent electrician" . I hope this helps.

Regards

 

[Adam W]

The way I see it there are 2 tests:

The 'Periodic Inspection Report' tests the fixed installation, ie the wires in the walls, consumer unit, sockets, lights etc.
The 'Portable Appliance Test' tests everything else, ie the appliances which the consumer can change, cooker, hand dryer etc.

The only grey area comes in when people have started lashing in non-standard things like sockets wired in t&e then spurred off an existing socket with a plugtop, random plugtops with bits of flex disappearing off into walls etc. These should be identified by both tests - the customer shouldn't need to get separate tests for portable appliances, moveable equipment, stationary equipment, fixed equipment, built-in equipment etc and it's inappropriate to leave, for example a washing machine untested because the tester doesn't feel it is sufficiently 'portable'.

For fixed equipment and built in equipment I use a homemade bit of flex with crocodile clips on the end, which I feel is safe enough provided I am careful with it and only use it with the tester. The safety connection units you can buy are a nice idea, but there is often not enough flex on the appliance to make a connection.

 

[rallyandy]

Hi
I do a lot of PAT testing, I use the Fluke 6500 which has most of the tests required programmed as standard, the machine will takes 3 pin plugs and IEC leads as standard, you are supposed to test all equipment connected to the fixed installation, which includes things like water heaters connected by fused spur units which i do using a breakout box.
I only use multimeters for equipment drawing more than 13 amp which is the limit of the PAT tester so tests have to be done individually as all portable or moveable appliances have to be tested.
hope this helps PM me if you need anything else
Andy

 

[a12jpm]

** Stupid question alert ** - what's a breakout box mate? Got any pics?

 

[rallyandy]

Hiya, not a stupid question that is what we are all here for, a breakout box is basically a 3 pin plug, flex and a box which has sprung connectors to attach the appliance you are testing flex cord. will try and find some pics

 

[ringer]

Hi
I use the Fluke 6500 ...I only use multimeters for equipment drawing more than 13 amp which is the limit of the PAT tester so tests have to be done individually as all portable or moveable appliances have to be tested....

Multimeters or Multi Function Tester (such as Megger MFT1552)? What sort of tests are you doing with them?

 

[rallyandy]

hi ringer
I use Megger MFT1553 to carry out insulation test, continuity test of earth path,resistance of appliance

 

[ringer]

Have not yet had the pleasure of testing anything that draws >13A but am sure I will come across somesuch sooner rather than later.
I follow you with the IR and continuity, but not with resistance of appliance. Why would you test that?

 

[rallyandy]

the resistance test is just to check that the appliance hasn't short circuited, example i had once is a coffee pot warmer that hadn't been used for a long while was suddenly pulled out of a cupboard by a customer of mine with no plug on it and a previous fail label on it. well i tested the resistance and found a dead short and informed customer it was right to be failed even though earth continuity was right and insulation resistance. he still did not believe me and fitted plug then plugged it in and tripped MCB straight away due to a dead short on the element., hope this helps
andy

 

[blackiel]

Anyone reccomend a place in london for taking Pat test Exam,How much and how long...Cheers

 

[ringer]

Assuming the IR and earth bond checked out ok, then if the appliance appeared to be ok I think I would just switch it on for a functional test (to save getting egg on my face if it didn't work). But I now understand why you did that with such a dodgy appliance. Would probably do that myself - but only if it was suspect. For such a 'simple subject' there aren't half a lot of variables at play with PAT testing aren't there?

 

[rasell]

Having looked carefully at different books etc. it appears that the answer is that in some circumstances (part 10 of the code) a low resistance ohmeter / insulation tester can be used, which as far as I can tell means a mutifunction tester can be used in limited circumstances provided it has a resolution of at least 0.01 for resistance.
So you could isolate the supply etc. then do insulation by combining phase and neutal vs earth, and do earth with low amps.

 

[UNG]

This is where PAT testing is really mis named and mis understood, In Service Equipment Inspection and Testing which is the correct name just doesn't have the same ring and doesn't slip off the tongue as easy as PAT and does actually clear up any grey area as Portable isn't mentioned so all appliances require inspection and test whether fixed or portable

 

[IP2X]

I’ll say ‘Hello’ here as this is my first post.
Any advice regarding the PAT testing of electronic office equipment, computers and the like, would be handy right now.
Not done much of this testing and the little I have done the tester just ran a programme test and recorded the results.
Now I have an office to visit and I’m not sure how much ‘testing’ I can do.
I recon I’ll do the PAT course after the college break.


.

 

[DurhamSparky]

god help you dont fry the PC on the wrong test!!!

really you should do the PAT 2377 course before you do any testing as if your competence is called into account you have no formal qual to say you studied the field...!!!

also dont forget insurance!!

 

[IP2X]

god help you dont fry the PC on the wrong test!!!

really you should do the PAT 2377 course before you do any testing as if your competence is called into account you have no formal qual to say you studied the field...!!!

also dont forget insurance!!

Thanks.


.

 

[Liberator]

This seems to be a grey area in the industry, the code says fixed appliances should be PAT tested but alot of the common PAT testing equipment cannot handle this sort of test.
I've come across different answers:
1. don't pat test fixed equipment
2. only do a visual + earth bond with a multimeter
3. some testers have in-situ earth bond / touch current tests
4. use PAT equipment that has probes, either at the back of the equipment or the connector box or fusebox to test
5. PAT testers should not take apart accessories or rewire things

Can anyone shed any light on this? I've seen a safety block advertised which can be used to connect via a plug to a PAT machine.

The multifunction devices don't have sufficient AMPs for PAT testing which can be up to 26A.

Don't forget also, that contacting the manufacturer of the equipment is advised to find out what tests are required post-repair.

Every equipment manufacturer that I have phoned have a technical department ready to help us PAT testers when we need it.

They would much rather help us discreetly over the phone than have some of their customers buying equipment that "fails" from their company.

This goes for any manufacturer and any type of equipment.

I remember testing a bunch of new LCD TV's in a hotel that were all failing on the Earth Leakage tests. Rather than just failing them I phoned the manufacturer. It took many phone calls and many departments but eventually got through to a technical director that said it could be excessive earth leakage being detected from the coaxial cable from the atennae. Don't forget TV signals in the Antennae are energy too and connect to the earth shielding of a tv.

The alternative would be to have the customer go crazy at the manufacturer for having a bunch of bad appliances, the manufacturer resolve the issue after a lot of expense and bother, then they would both come after you.

If in doubt call the manufacturer.

 

[UNG]

If in doubt call the manufacturer.

In this cost conscious age of 50p / appliance and a requirement to do 200 - 250+ tests per day what pays for the call and the time to do it? !!

 

[Liberator]

Only yourself if your self-employed........

If you work for a company, ask them.. It can take time and money, depends how thorough you choose to be.

If your charging 50p a test you should have enough work to be employing an army of pat testers.

We charge £1.95/test..... and still knock out 200 tests a day.. set yourself apart from the competition.

If you're the cheapest, your not necessarily the best...... would you by 5p can of beans, or the 67p can of beans, and is there a difference in quality?